Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors alike swearing by its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a exclusive group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it becomes part of a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound culinary traditions and dynamic culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, bustling, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is at last in the limelight for what has always shaped its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can head to a unpretentious joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are reluctant to take up the art.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people worldwide to explore these tales and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
